Aging skin and Photo-damage
Biological aging is a natural process and inevitable. Hereditary influences play a significant role in certain characteristics such as bone structure and soft tissue positioning in aspects of the aging process. However there are other influences that can affect the aging process:
- Premature aging from photo-damage (sun damage)
- Facial movements – expression lines
- Positional habits causes sleep lines
- Gravity
- Smoking
- Diet
Often individuals will opt for cosmetic surgery or inject able solutions to reverse the signs of aging in order to restore the youthful contours and underlying structures. Whilst this can be beneficial cosmetic surgery cannot address the primary cause of the appearance of aging skin photo-damage (sun damage). Scientists researching the aging process have estimated that at least 96 % of the visible signs of aging are a direct result of cumulative sun damage. Photo-damage may present as fine lines, brown spots, loss of elasticity, coarse dryness, skin growths, telangiectasias (damaged blood vessels), and yellow or grey skin tinges normally due to damaged blood vessels providing poor circulation to the surface of the skin. Many cosmetic doctors will often refer to this as “quality of skin.” To achieve the optimum results from non-surgical procedures or indeed expensive cosmetic surgery it is important to first topically treat the skin in order to achieve the maximum in rejuvenation. Until recently physicians were only able to offer chemical peels, dermabrasion and co2 laser resurfacing. New medical based skin care technologies are now able to prevent and even reverse certain changes for a more youthful appearance. Whilst topical treatments do not replace surgery or chemical peels and other procedures they play a critical role in enhancing the final outcome.
SUN EXPOSURE and FREE RADICALS
Even minimal sun exposure is known to trigger an intense invasion of free radicals. So what are free radicals? Some free radicals arise normally during metabolism sometimes the cells within the body’s immune system purposefully creates them to neutralize viruses and bacteria. However, environmental factors such as pollution, radiation, smoking and herbicides can also generate free radicals. Normally, the body can handle free radicals, but if antioxidants are unavailable, or if the free-radical production becomes excessive, damage can occur. It is clearly understood that free radical damage accumulates with age significantly affecting the condition of the skin and underlying structures. Consistent release of free radicals results in long-term damage this can appear as:
- Loss of collagen and elastin the skin becomes slack often seen around the jaw line
- Dry skin
- Skin discolouration (brown spots/hyperpigmentation or melasma)
- Loss of muscle tone
- Lines and wrinkles
- Coarse texture
- In severe cases Skin cancer
Melasma of the face. Melasma is normally characterised by hypergpigmented brown patches commonly located over the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and neck. It can be superficial affecting the epidermal layers of the skins surface or the deeper dermal layers or both. It more commonly effects women and often occurs after childbirth, menopause or from receiving topical or oral hormonal based medications such as the contraceptive pill. It is often made worse by sun exposure.
Results of photo-damage
Other factors such as the decline in oestrogen levels after the age of 25 will contribute to the aging process. When we assess ourselves in the mirror most of us will be concerned with:
- Absence of lines and wrinkles

- Evenness of skin tone
- Defined contours and elasticity
- Follicle size
- Health and vibrancy
Much can be accomplished with regard to improving the quality of skin by using the recommended Jan Marini 5 step programme. This could begin with the starter system containing 5 trial size products last for four weeks and is the system recommended to prepare the skin pre peel.
A good homecare regime using the foremost researched products on today’s market containing AHA’s (alpha hydroxy such as glycolic acid can provide excellent results.
STEP ONE - Cleanse
Jan Marini Bioglycolic Range of products contain 12 % glycolic acid with a PH value of only 3.25 therefore a very kind product to skins that have become sensitised. Glycolic is derived from natural sugar cane contains an enzyme capable of dissolving the glue-like substance that cements dead skin cells to the walls of the follicle. It allows stubborn keratinised cells to be released on to the surface of the skin preparing the skin to receive resurfacing, rejuvenating and rehydrating products at the deepest level.
STEP TWO – Rejuvenate
C-Esta serum offers powerful antioxidant properties. After years of clinical research the first stabilized form of topically absorbed vitamin C was produced in the C-Esta line Increases elasticity, tightens facial contours that will overtime appear more defined. This product line is also ideal for use post peel and post co2 laser resurfacing.
STEP THREE - Resurface
Jan Marini Bioclear contains both Glycolic and Salicylic Acid an excellent ant-inflammatory resurfacer and is recommended for use. This product would initially be applied as the skin texture improves and tolerance to products increases other products within the Age Intervention range should be introduced such as the new and latest break through in skin care technology Age Intervention Transitions a new product by Jan Marini is the very latest break through treatment for female adult acne, containing a unique patented formula includes red glover a naturally occurring plant extract that helps to address the hormonal imbalance experienced during the inevitable depletion of oestrogen levels, which naturally declines after the age of 25 years. Factor A (containing All-Trans-Retinol the active form of Vitamin A in Retin A would be used as an additional accelerator after applying the C-esta serum this product would normally only be introduced after at least four weeks of treatment due to the very active nature of ingredients).
STEP FOUR - Rehydrate
Jan Marini Transformation. All skin types require rehydration; transformation serum offers a light coverage particularly beneficial for oily and normal skins or transformation cream for normal to dry skins and contains Beta 1growth factor to assist healing, vascular growth factor beta 4 for vascular repair and fortification of superficial blood vessels and Nayad hyaluronic acid a unique hydrating complex. For a more mature skin type Age Intervention serum/cream would normally be prescribed in place of transformation.
STEP FIVE - Protect
SUN PROTECTION
Sun protection is the most important factor in caring for your skin.
A broad-spectrum sunscreen offering UVA and UVB protection spf30 with a waterproof rating is essential. Daily face protectant incorporates a combination of conventional sun screening agents along with two newly developed non- chemical sun blocking substances that provide enhanced sun protection as well as exceptional skin recovery benefits ensuring continuous coverage.
MAKE-UP
- Whilst we want to cover-up outbreaks and blemishes make up can aggravate the skin. At Kate Russell we are introducing Mineralologie Make-up containing only a 100% pure minerals. All minerologie products are hypo-allergenic, recommended by dermatologists and plastic surgeons and is listed on the Safe Cosmetics List, www.safecosmetics.org. Many of the containers are made from 25% RECYCLED materials others are biodegradable.
All products contain:
- Are paraban free
- Hypo-allergenic
- Noncomedogenic
- Natural to complete coverage
- Suitable for all skin types/conditions
- Contain spf26
- Used post laser
- Post peel
- Post surgery
- Can be worn whilst swimming and sunbathing or exercising
Mineralogie not only offers a flawless finish the healing properties of the minerals will continue to heal and recover your skin whilst you wear it. Please visit www.mineralologie.biz for more information.
Please note topical products should be applied regularly for optimum results. It is advisable to consult a clinic specialising in medical grade products.
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