Acne Advice

 
Acne is a common disorder that affects many people. It often starts in puberty and can continue well into adulthood. Many scientists believe the condition to be hereditary.  It does not always affect all family members and can even miss a generation entirely. The condition can vary in severity and is largely driven by the amount of sebum produced.  Hormones are known to play a significant role in the production of sebum leading to an oily skin type. This commonly occurs in adolescence when androgen levels are higher in both males and females stimulating the production of sebum.  Propionibacteria Acnes (P Acne bacteria) thrives on sebum then excretes toxins, which are a highly inflammable part of the process.
The surface of the skin or stratum corneum (the outer dead or keratinised layer) on the face, back, chest and upper arms is covered with pilosebaceous follicles, whilst there are other types of follicles over these areas, acne is strictly confined to hair follicles.  On the face three types of hair follicles occur vellus, sebaceous and terminal. Sebaceous follicles are the largest and most numerous on the face and it is only the sebaceous follicles where acne takes place.  This is why acne tends to be most prevalent in these regions.

Individuals who have first hand experience of acne may recognise the various stages of development that can occur.

Stage One
The sebaceous follicle is not much wider than the diameter of a hair, and is lined with microscopic dead cells.  In a non-problematic skin type the cells within the follicle are normally ‘flushed’ to the surface via various lipid substances produced by the body.  However in those individuals who are prone to developing acne the dead cells within the follicle tend to be thicker and resistant to the normal ‘flushing’ process.  Secondly the cells tend to stick together forming a plug referred to as a microcomedone (minute blackhead).
 

Stage Two
As these keratinised cells increase a mass begins to form within the follicle.  As the sebaceous gland produces oil, the oil is trapped within the compacted cells producing an oxygen free environment for bacteria to multiply and inflammation occurs.

Stage Three
During stage three the follicle expands rupturing into surrounding healthy tissue.  The process can happen relatively quickly or may take several months, as mirocomedones can lie dormant until triggered by stress, hormonal fluctuations or other variables. Depending on where the blockage lies within the follicle a non-inflammatory response may occur resulting in a comedone (blackhead) this type of response is more superficial occurring closer to the follicle opening. Inflammatory lesions such as, papules, pustules, nodules and cysts tend to be much more severe involving a blockage that lies closer to the bottom of the follicle.  Cysts can cause severe inflammation can be deep and widespread invariably resulting in scarring.

A good homecare regime can provide excellent results for acne sufferers. The foremost researched products on today’s market containing AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid) or BHA’s (beta hydroxy acids such as Salicylic acid) both are particularly beneficial.
Jan Marini Bioglycolic Range of products contain 12 % glycolic acid with a PH value of only 3.25 therefore a very kind product to skins that have become sensitised.  Glycolic is derived from natural sugar cane and contains an enzyme capable of dissolving the glue-like substance that cements dead skin cells to the walls of the follicle allowing stubborn keratinised cells to be released on to the surface of the skin used over time will interrupt the cycle preventing the beginning of the acne process. It is normal for the skin to purge for at least two weeks outbreaks at this stage are very normal and a sign that the skin is responding to treatment.
After years of clinical research the first stabilized form of topically absorbed vitamin C was produced in the C-Esta line. C-Esta serum offers powerful antioxidant properties.   The product line is also ideal for use post peel and post co2 laser resurfacing.

Jan Marini Bioclear contains both Glycolic and Salicylic Acid an excellent ant-inflammatory resurfacer and is recommended for use.

Benzoyl Peroxide is a medication that helps prevent the narrowing of the openings of the sebaceous glands and slows the growth of the acne bacterium suitable for younger skins.

Transistions a new product by Jan Marini is the very latest break through treatment for female adult acne, containing a unique patented formula includes red glover a naturally occurring plant extract that helps to address the hormonal imbalance experienced during the inevitable depletion of oestrogen levels, which naturally declines after the age of 25 years.  All skin types require rehydration; transformation serum offers a light coverage particularly beneficial for oily and normal skins. It contains Beta 1growth factor to assist healing, vascular growth factor beta 4 for vascular repair and fortification of superficial blood vessels and Nayad hyaluronic acid a unique hydrating complex.  Whilst there is no cure for acne it is possible to reduce or clear the condition completely, but requires good use of homecare products a course of professional peels is recommended to help clear the most stubborn of acne conditions.

SUN PROTECTION
Sun protection is the most important factor in caring for your skin particularly for those individuals taking tetracycline antibiotics and in severe cases of acne roaccutane. Both are common oral treatments prescribed by general practitioners and dermatologists.  These medications can cause side effects it is therefore important to read manufactures instructions and follow advice from your physician. A common side effect is when the skin develops photosensitivity to sunlight this normally subsides once the medication stops.  However with roaccutane this can continue for longer and extra care should be taken. (Please note patients must be 6 months post treatment after taking roaccutane before the skin can be treated with Jan Marini products and peels).  Whilst sun exposure may initially tan the skin and clear breakouts the sun will in fact stimulate the sebaceous glands into producing more oil. Bacteria will multiply within the keratinised walls of the follicle and the acne process begins again sometimes more severe.
A broad-spectrum sunscreen offering UVA and UVB protection spf30 with a waterproof rating is essential.  Daily face protectant incorporates a combination of conventional sun screening agents along with two newly developed non- chemical sun blocking substances that provide enhanced sun protection as well as exceptional skin recovery benefits ensuring continuous coverage.

A FEW WORTHWHILE TIPS!
Do not squeeze or pick at any areas where there is or has been an outbreak. This will make the spots worse and may cause scarring

• Avoid hairstyles in which the hair is constantly touching your face. Shampoo your hair regularly, especially if it is very oily
• Good nutrition - Eating a healthy, balanced diet can help to improve your energy levels, sleep patterns and feeling of well being this will be reflected in your skin. The good news is ‘chocolate’ does not cause acne, however a good diet will improve the condition of the skin and may help to reduce congestion.
• Water - Drink lots of water at least 8 glasses a day this will flush out toxins and transport nutrients around the body and improve the skin’s appearance
• Apply topical products regularly it is advisable to consult a clinic specialising in products suitable for acne skins

MAKE-UP
Whilst we want to cover-up outbreaks and blemishes make up can aggravate an acneic skin. At Kate Russell we are introducing Mineralologie Make-up containing only a 100% pure minerals. All Minerologie products are hypo-allergenic, recommended by dermatologists and plastic surgeons and is listed on the Safe Cosmetics List, www.safecosmetics.org. Many of the containers are made from 25% RECYCLED materials others are biodegradable.

All products contain: 

•        Natural ingredients
•        Are paraban free
•        Hypo-allergenic
•        Noncomedogenic
•        Natural to complete coverage
•        Suitable for all skin types/conditions
•        Contain spf26
•        Used post laser
•        Post peel
•        Post surgery
•        Can be worn whilst swimming, sunbathing or exercising

Mineralogie not only offers a flawless finish the healing properties of the minerals will continue to heal and recover your skin whilst you wear it. Please visit www.mineralologie.biz for more information. 

Please note topical products should be applied regularly for optimum results. It is advisable to consult a clinic specialising in products suitable for acne skins. If your acne is causing you psychological distress or your acne is persistent consult your local General Practitioner.